Installation of B&M Ripper Gear Selector

Installation of B&M (part # 45057) Ripper Gear Selector

$209.15 From C5 Concepts

Parts List

1 B&M Ripper Shifter

1 Rubber Boot

1 Metal Retaining RIng

1 Base Gasket

1 Instruction Sheet

Tools List

Needle Nose Pliers	3/8" Ratchet & Short Extension
#2 Phillips Screwdriver	10 mm Socket
T-15 Torx® Bit Driver	11/16" Open End Wrench
Small Flat Blade Screwdriver	3/8" Torque Wrench
Vise Grips	Patience

Here we see the steps necessary for the installation:
(Image 1) Removal of the shift pattern indicator
(Image 2) The stock gear selector without knob
(Image 3) After removal of the Ride Control - Traction Control switches
(Image 4) After removal of the trim plate
(Image 5) The stock gear selector in all it's glory
(Image 6) Looking down into the shifter assembly housing
(Image 7) The stock shifter is out of the car
(Image 8) The B&M shifter is now installed
(Image 9) Here it is with the boot and trim plate installed
(Image 10) Finally - it's done!

Click on thumbnail for larger image

Detail Instructions (refer to the thumbnails above):
I - Removal of the accessory trim plate
Step - 01 Put the parking brake on and the shifter in 4th gear - it makes removal of the console trim plate easier if the shifter is out of the way.
Step - 02 Remove the shift knob by first prying off the shift pattern indicator with a small screwdriver. Then using the needle nose pliers (if you are lucky) or two screwdrivers (one on each side) or vice grips (if you are NOT lucky), pry up the metal tab or key which holds the shift knob from turning. (See Image 01 - 02)
Step - 03 Lift the center console door and insert a small blade screwdriver into the slot just below the rear of the ride control or traction control switch. Pry up the switch and disconnect the electrical connector. (Image 03)
Step - 04 Using a 10 mm socket, remove the retaining nuts holding the trim plate and the front of the console to the tunnel.
Step - 05 Using a small flat blade screwdriver, pry the covers off of the rear console retaining nuts. Remove the nuts (10 mm) an lift and pull the rear of the console just enough to clear the studs.
Step - 06 Using a small, flat blade screwdriver, gently pry off the temperature sensor panel located to the left of the ignition switch. Remove the Torx® screw behind this plate
Step - 07 Remove the ash tray. Remove the Torx® screw located near the cigar lighter. Now gently move the trim plate to the rear and upward for removal. (Image 04 - 05)
II - Removal of the stock shifter
Step - 08 Using a 10 mm socket, remove the four retaining nuts that hold down the rubber shift boot. Remove the boot.
Step - 09 Using a 10 mm socket, remove the four bolts holding down the shifter. Remove the shifter from the housing. I found that it is best to put the shifter in neutral before doing this step - it makes lining things up easier. (Image 06)
Step - 10 Carefully pry back the shifter bushing from ball on the end of the shifter. (Image 07)
III - Installing the Ripper Shifter
Step - 11 Install the black shifter bushing onto the lower ball of the B&M Ripper shifter. You may want to put a dab of white lithium grease on the bushing before step 13.
Step - 12 Remove the rubber gasket (it it is still attached) from the shifter housing.
Step - 13 Place the supplied gasket on the shifter housing and carefully lower the B&M shifter on to the housing, making sure to properly align the shifter ball into the socket (Note that the B&M shifter is not symmetrical and must be installed with the cut out on the top of the stick facing rearward). Then reinstall the four factory hold down bolts and torque to 20-25 lb-ft (BE CAREFUL HERE). If installed, remove the shift stops - they are not needed. (Image 08) Note that shift stops were included with the early versions of the Ripper.
Step - 14 Slip the supplied rubber boot and retaining ring over the shifter, making sure to bull the boot over the shift stops (if installed). Slip the retaining ring over the bottom of the boot to secure it.
Step - 15 Reinstall the factory rubber shifter boot over the Ripper. Reinstall and tighten the four hold down bolts to 15 lb-ft. (Image 09)
IV - Reinstall the trim plate
Step - 16 Locate the trim plate back over the shifter. Reconnect the electrical connector from the lighter and then gently reinsert the trim plate on to the instrument panel. Replace the screws near the cigarette lighter and temperature sensor.
Step - 17 Gently guide the rear of the console over the studs and reinstall the nuts and their covers.
Step - 18 Replace the retaining nuts holding the trim plate and the front of the console to the tunnel.
Step - 19 Reconnect the electrical connector on the Active Handling and/or ride control. Carefully push the switch back into the console. Reinstall the shift knob, being careful to properly line up the slot in the shifter with the window in the knob. Fully seat the metal "T" into the knob and reinstall the shift pattern indicator,. Replace the ash tray.
Step - 20 GO SHIFTING! (Image 10)

Here we can see:
(a) A detailed view of the console with the trim plate removed
(b) The parts we receive from B&M (new shifter, internal boot, clamp and gasket
(c) Old and new together, note the difference in diameter (like the stock one was going to bend or something!)
(d) Another view of old and new. Note the difference in length of the lower portion, the B&M is significantly longer which changes the lever arm and shortens the throw.

Comments on the installation: The instructions provided by B&M are quite clear and easy to follow. They list the tools needed so you can avoid repeated trips to the tool box. They do omit, however, that you might need vice grips or another sturdy grabbing tool to remove the metal tab or "T" that holds the shift knob in place. Mine was "very snug" and took some work to remove. An easy way to remove the tab is with two screw drivers (one prying from each side). Another area to watch out for is the "jam nuts" - the early shifters came with these to act as stops to prevent pushing the transmission too far into a gear. They are no longer needed and have been removed by B&M from later models. You can take them off of the shifter housing and toss 'em. Also be cautious when removing the trim plate to avoid scratching the dash. It is a tricky fit with the parking brake and shifter stem in the way. The B&M instructions leave you with the transmission in 4th gear - this is a good place for knob removal, but I found that neutral (stick straight up) was easier for the rest of the installation. BE REAL CAREFUL when tightening the shifter hold down bolts as the housing is aluminum and the bolts are steel. It is very easy to strip out the aluminum housing and cause all kinds of secondary problems that you don't want to deal with. Also take care when re-installing the factory rubber shifter boot to ensure that it fits all the way around. This is the gizmo that seals out the hot air in the drive tunnel from entering the car right by the driver's leg. The factory rubber sound isolation cover does not fit nicely over B&M shifter. It bulges out on the left side after the retaining nuts are tightened. The leather shifter boot and console cover it up so that you don't notice it. But if it is not properly installed, mucho hot air will blast in on your right leg!

For additional instructions, pictures and comments, see Steve Merenkov's web page http://www.c5-corvette.com/Ripper.htm.

Post Installation Comments and Initial Drive Impressions: The unit looks pretty cool (see picture 10 above) and definitely is shorter. I opted to use the stock knob to maintain the factory look and feel. My initial driving impressions are as follows:

A bit difficult to get into reverse - you really have to want to go there and it takes some effort due to the stiffness of the centering spring.
The gates are very firm and tight but "deep" enough to feel firmly in gear.
I noticed a bit of "rattle" at higher RPM's but only if my hand was on the shifter. I will tighten things up in about a week.
No noticeable rattles if I keep my hands to myself.
I think that transmission whine is a bit louder now. I like the sound so it does not bother me. Besides, that's what the CD player is for. A little ZZ Top and all those pesky C5 noises disappear.
Shifting is crisp and REAL FAST if you want to slam the gears. Basically it's a wrist movement.
It takes a bit of getting used to - it DOES feel different.
I did miss fifth gear once and hit third, probably a momentary lapse on my part. In general driving most of us will not be power shifting into fifth anyway.
The true test will be when my wife first drives the car. If she thinks it sucks, then I will be re-thinking my strategy.
Here's an update on the wife situation. She drove the car a few times and has mellowed from her initial impression. She likes the shortness of the throw but not the firmness and effort required. A softer centering spring would help.

For additional information, refer to the December, 2000 issue of Corvette Fever.

Click Here to go to Frank's Corvette Page